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• Saturday, December 18th, 2010

Posted by Arnold Plotnick, DVM on 12/18/2007 in Scratching Post Articles

Cats are living longer and better quality lives than ever before, thanks to improved nutrition, veterinary care and educated owners. This increased longevity means that more owners will be faced with the special demands and problems that become apparent with geriatric cats. Understanding aging is the first step in providing the best possible care to your cat in her golden years.

First, realize that aging itself is not a disease – it is simply a stage of life. Increasing age causes a gradual decline in the body’s ability to repair itself, maintain normal body functions and adapt to the stresses and changes in the environment. Many changes occur. For example, metabolism changes, so less food is required. Older cats, in general, have a more sedentary life style, so weight gain and obesity are common problems.

Changes in a cat’s environment or routine may actually contribute to behavioral changes or even illness. With time, cats begin to have a gradual decline in their hearing, sense of smell, vision and taste. Older cats tend to sleep more and have more difficulty being roused. Metabolic and endocrine problems, organ dysfunction and cancer are all seen with increased frequency in the elderly cat.

Proper care, nutrition, medical attention and a safe, stimulating environment are important factors that can improve a cat’s quality of life and longevity dramatically. Genetics also plays a part. Siamese tend to have longer life expectancies, but Persians usually have shorter life expectancies.

Cats reach senior status by age 7 or 8 – the perfect time to begin a geriatric health plan so that disorders can be detected early enough to provide medical or surgical intervention.

A complete geriatric health plan includes these eight veterinary procedures and tests:

A complete medical history. Some veterinarians have specific geriatric health history questionnaires that can be filled out by the owner. Any problems or concerns that owners have about their pet should be discussed.
A complete physical examination. Eyes and ears are examined for signs of infection or allergies. The mouth, gums and teeth are evaluated, with dental disease and gingivitis being common findings. Lymph nodes and the thyroid gland are evaluated for enlargement. The skin and quality of the hair coat are observed. Skin tumors or swellings are noted. A poor hair coat or a lack of grooming may be signs of allergies, parasites, infections or systemic illness. The heart and lungs are evaluated with the stethoscope and any abnormalities or murmurs are noted. The abdomen is palpated for any masses or organ enlargements. Finally, the general body condition and weight are recorded.
Complete blood count. In geriatric cats, anemia is common. It may be necessary to determine if the anemia is acute, chronic or related to a cancer.
Biochemical profile. Information about the liver, kidneys, blood sugar, and electrolytes is obtained through this important test.
Thyroid testing. Hyperthyroidism is a very common problem in older cats. The most common signs of hyperthyroidism are increased appetite and weight loss. The disorder is very treatable, and in most cases is easily diagnosed through this simple blood test.
Urinalysis. Analysis of the urine can help detect underlying urinary tract infection, kidney problems and diabetes. If necessary, a urine culture may be recommended.
Fecal examination. Since gastrointestinal parasites may be more debilitating in geriatric animals, a yearly fecal exam is recommended.
FIV and FeLV (feline leukemia virus) testing. Both of these viral diseases may cause suppression of the immune system and can contribute to many other systemic illnesses. Cats who have previously tested negative and have had no possible exposure to other cats may not need this test.
The proper diet is very important in the care of a geriatric cat. There is no “best” food to feed a geriatric cat as the choice depends on the specific problems or nutritional requirements of the particular cat. Consult your veterinarian.

Final senior strategy: enroll your cat in a geriatric wellness program at your veterinary clinic so you can maximize the chances of detecting disorders early, allow for appropriate treatment and promote the health and longevity of your cat.

By Arnold Plotnick, DVM, board-certified in feline medicine and internal medicine. He operates the Manhattan Cat Specialists practice in New York City and can be reached through his website: www.manhattancats.com.

• Monday, November 22nd, 2010

A woman and her dog play in the snow.
Don’t let your pet’s fur coat or weathered paw pads fool you. He gets cold, too. For pet health and safety, dogs and cats should remain mostly indoors during winter months; especially young pets, senior pets, and those that have pet health issues of any kind. Below are some important precautions to consider for pets during the winter months.

Keep Pets Warm
A fur coat can only do so much. One of the reasons pets enjoy cuddling close to owners, and each other, is to keep warm. Although not recommended, pets kept outside for any lengths of time need shelter from the elements in a draft-free doghouse. They need extra calories and fresh water in a plastic bowl. Metal bowls could freeze and thirsty tongues can get stuck to them.

Prolonged exposure to cold and wind can cause frostbite on their ears, nose, tail and paws. According to the article “How to Recognize, Prevent and Treat Hypothermia and Frostbite in Our Pets” by Veterinarian Elisa M. Mazzaferro, frostbite requires an immediate visit to the vet because cat and dog health issues can result, including infections, amputations, and even death.

“Some animals can be left with permanent disfiguring injuries,” wrote Mazzaferro, Director of Emergency Services at Wheat Ridge Veterinary Specialists in Colorado.

While walking, small and short-haired dogs may benefit from a sweater and paw wax to protect their paws from ice, snow, and salt.

Indoors, pets can benefit from heated pet beds and blankets. Many upscale models are designed for pet safety—they warm only with the pet’s body heat, saving on electric bills and avoiding overheating the pet.

Supervise Pets
Chilly months bring new dangers and more opportunities to pet proof the home. Pets should not be left unsupervised near space heaters, fireplaces, or candles.

On their website, The Humane Society of the United States warns that sweet-tasting antifreeze is attractive but deadly to pets. The organization advises using “antifreeze-coolant made with propylene glycol, which is less toxic in small amounts than traditional ethylene glycol antifreeze.”

Because there are so many possibilities for wintertime dangers, pet owners may want to consider purchasing pet insurance for their pets. Not only can pet insurance help with pet health bills at the veterinarian, but dog and cat insurance also provide pet owners with peace of mind.

• Tuesday, October 05th, 2010

A cat is tended to by a veterinarian.
Diabetes is a disease that affects pet health in approximately one in 400 cats. Cats that have diabetes can live a fairly normal life if the disease is diagnosed early and the cat receives daily treatment to control the disease. Cat health insurance can help cover the expenses that comes with having a diabetic cat.

The most common cat illness symptom associated with diabetes is increased urination. This symptom may not be obvious to some owners, as it can be hard to detect an increase in urination in homes that have multiple cats using the same litter box.

Other pet health symptoms of diabetes may include increased thirst, weight loss, lethargy and decreased appetite. These cat health symptoms are similar to symptoms that are seen in other common cat diseases. Once your cat exhibits changes in behavior or any unusual symptoms, she should be taken in to be checked by a veterinarian.

Diabetes is diagnosed via bloodwork and urinalysis. Cats with diabetes will exhibit high levels of glucose in their blood and glucose in their urine. Once a diagnosis of diabetes is made, the veterinarian will usually start the cat on insulin injections.

When cats begin on insulin they will have a glucose curve done. A glucose curve tracks the glucose level of the cat over several hours. The cat will be dropped off at the vet for the day. The cat’s glucose level will be checked first thing after they are dropped off. The cat will then be fed and given its morning insulin dose.

The cat’s blood will then be drawn at increments throughout the day to monitor its glucose level. The curve of the glucose levels will help the veterinarian determine if further cat health care will be needed– such as adjusting dosage levels. The cat will need to come in periodically to have the glucose curve done to make sure that no adjustments need to me made to the insulin dose.

• Friday, August 13th, 2010

A black and white cat uses a computer.
Like most other social media enthusiasts, Shiva starts her day with breakfast and a quick status update on Facebook.

The only difference—Shiva’s not human. She’s a cat.

The kitty’s owner, Kirsty Worrall, created a Facebook account for her cat, because she said her family seemed more interested in Shiva’s daily life than how she and her partner were faring, CNN reports.

“I come from a family of huge cat lovers,” Worrall told the news provider. “They’re fascinated with Shiva… they’ve been able to watch her grow through the Facebook page.”

Worrall told the source that her family and friends were able to keep tabs on her cat’s health, as well as watch her grow from a kitten to an adult.

According to the source, although exact numbers are difficult to pin down, Worrall is just one of many pet owners who pose as their pets on social networks.

“A quick scan of Facebook yields at least a few thousand profile pages for dogs and cats along with less common pets such as birds, hamsters, ferrets, turtles, fish and rabbits,” CNN reports.

Though pet owners who post as their animals generally do so for fun, many are unaware that it violates Facebook’s terms and conditions.

“Since accounts that impersonate anyone or anything can damage the integrity of this environment,

Facebook doesn’t allow fake profiles for pets,” Facebook spokesperson Winnie Ko told CNN in an e-mail.

Jessica Frey, who controls her rabbit Nestle’s Facebook page, told CNN she thinks that seems silly.

“We all know it’s really not the pets that are doing it,” Frey told the news provider. “It’s the people behind them that are making friends with other people. It’s pretty harmless.”

Worrall agrees, telling CNN that she feels completely comfortable using the social media site to pose as her cat “with other crazy cat ladies.”

Facebook did not respond when asked by the news source whether the site removes pets’ profile pages.

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• Thursday, May 07th, 2009

The following excerpts from an article by Dr. Rolan Tripp of the Animal Behavior Network will greatly assist you in having a positive long-term relationship with your newly adopted dog. For more information, please visit www.animalbehavior.net for online behavior training courses.

Never use physical discipline. Dogs don’t hit each other and do not understand the behavior. Striking a dog will result in the wrong behavior as the dog ages. It causes a loss of trust.

Help the puppy to succeed. New puppies should be either on leash or confined when indoors. The leash is tethered to you as you move about the house. Take the puppy out every few hours to the toilet area. Use food or praise as rewards for correct elimination.

Keep accidents hidden. Don’t let the puppy see you cleaning up any accidents, since the human attention may be a social reinforcer of the habit.

Begin socialization early. Isolation may adversely affect the puppy. Enroll in puppy classes at 8 weeks of age or thereafter. Allow to meet and greet other humans and dogs as much as possible.

Day Care. Enroll the puppy in a day care program at least once a week between 3-6 months of age, then one day a month until two years of age to improve socialization, intelligence, exercise and reduce chance of separation anxiety later in life.

Begin “gentling’ exercises daily. A combination of handling to develop the puppy’s personality into a calm, trusting, friendly and compliant pet. It establishes a positive human leadership without fear or domination. You may want to give a small treat before and after each session.

• Monday, November 17th, 2008

Posted by Pets Best on 11/17/2008 in Articles from Newsletters

10 Potentially Deadly Foods

Secret killers: foods that are tasty for you may be deadly for pets.
This list does not include all of the foods that can harm pets, but does include some of the most common (and surprising!) dangers that could be lurking in your home.

Chocolate
Chocolate toxicity is one of the most common causes of pet poisoning during the holidays. Chocolate contains a lethal component called theobromine —the darker the chocolate, the more theobromine it contains.

Raisins and Grapes
It isn’t clear to scientists just what makes raisins and grapes toxic to both cats and dogs, but even a relatively small amount can damage the kidneys.

Onions and Garlic
Many pet owners are surprised to discover that onions and garlic contain sulfoxides and disulfides, which can damage red blood cells and cause anemia in cats and dogs. Onion and garlic powders are found in many prepared foods – even baby food – so make sure to read labels before serving any item to your pet.

Xylitol
Dog poisoning cases involving this artificial sweetener, often found in sugar-free baked goods and candy as well as sugarless gum, are on the rise. Eating it can result in a sudden drop in blood sugar levels, resulting in depression, loss of coordination, and seizures. The amount of xylitol in five pieces of gum has the potential to kill a 65-pound dog.

Fatty Foods
When it comes to fatty cuts of meat and other fatty items including chicken or turkey skin, it’s better to throw them out than to feed them to pets as a treat. They can cause acute pancreatitis, a life-threatening illness with severe complications.

Avocado
Potentially poisonous to dogs, cats and other animals, avocados contain a fungicidal toxin called persin. Avocados, if eaten, may trigger fluid accumulation in the lungs and chest, leading to difficulty breathing and death from oxygen deprivation.

Moldy or Spoiled Foods
These can contain multiple toxins that can cause vomiting and diarrhea and may affect other organs.

Alcohol
Because cats and dogs are smaller than humans, alcohol can have a much more deadly affect on them. Dogs are often attracted by the sweet taste of alcoholic drinks, especially eggnog. Even small amounts of alcohol can lead to heart arrhythmias, seizures, coma, and even death.

Macadamia Nuts
Though the exact reason is something of a mystery, these famous Hawaiian exports are considered toxic to dogs because they tend to cause gastrointestinal upsets, lethargy, vomiting and muscle tremors or stiffness. As few as six nuts can cause severe poisoning.

Coffee Grounds
Accidentally ingesting coffee grounds, or consuming any drink that is high in caffeine, can cause your dog’s heart to race. This can result in seizures, tremors, arrhythmias, vomiting, diarrhea, or difficulty in breathing.

Because toxicity symptoms are similar no matter what your pet may have eaten, you should watch out if your pet seems to be distressed, listless or in pain. Bloody stools or vomiting are also possible indications. Gastrointestinal problems can lead a build-up of gas until the stomach becomes bloated and hard to the touch. This painful condition can cause the stomach to burst if not treated.

If you think your pet might have been poisoned, call your veterinarian or a poison-control hotline.

The good news is, in most cases, toxic poisoning can be successfully treated if you seek help for your pet right away.

• Friday, October 17th, 2008

Posted by Pets Best on 10/17/2008 in General Articles

Dogs provide us with companionship, love, loyalty, and friendship – but having a dog could also save your life. It is easy to underestimate your dog, but when danger strikes, it may be your dog that comes to the rescue and helps to keep you safe.

Dogs are incredibly instinctive, especially when working with those who are elderly or ill. Many dogs can, in fact, be trained to alert their owners when they are about to have a seizure, or even when their blood sugar is too low. They also play a vital role in the recovery of many of their owners. There have been many cases of miraculous recoveries when a patient is reunited and allowed to stay with their dog, with whom they have a close connection.

Nationwide, there are many dogs working in the field of pet therapy, where their love and compassion can help brighten the spirits and save the lives of those who are ill. The patients who receive pet therapy are often down and out, and have all but given up hope for survival. The pet therapy and love they receive from these dogs helps to enliven them, and give them a reason to live again.

Their instinctive nature also comes in handy when dogs are trying to warn their owners of impending danger. Many cases have been reported of dogs waking their owners up in the middle of the night to alert them of fires, robbers, or extreme weather.

Dogs have also been known to help find their owners when they are lost. Dogs have rescued adults and children who were drowning, helped locate survivors after a natural disaster, and have been known to run for help when their owners have become stranded, or hurt far from help.

Dogs are some of the most loyal friends that many people will ever have. And they may just save your life.

• Friday, November 23rd, 2007

Posted by Kim Campbell Thornton on 11/23/2007 in Dog Behavior

Dogs are pack animals, and they love to be with their people. That’s one of the many reasons they make such great companions. In some cases, however, a dog’s need for human attention becomes extreme, making him prone to separation anxiety when no one’s home to keep him company.

If your dog pees or poops in the house when he’s left alone, chews destructively, especially at doors and windows, or the neighbors report that he barks when you’re gone, he’s not necessarily misbehaving. He may have separation anxiety, a behavior problem that affects up to 15 percent of the nation’s 73.9 million dogs.

Dogs with separation anxiety are unable to cope with being alone. They may have been poorly socialized, lack self-confidence, or simply have never learned how to be alone. Besides being noisy or destructive, dogs with separation anxiety may drool excessively, pace, lick themselves incessantly, or refuse to eat or drink. When their people are home, they may be clingy, insisting on being as close to them as possible. While separation anxiety can be frustrating, behavior modification can help.

It is vital to teach your dog that arrivals and departures are nothing to worry about. Whether you’re leaving or coming home, be matter-of-fact. Overly emotional greetings or farewells can teach your dog that your absence is something to worry about.

Set up cues that will help your dog feel comfortable with your departure. Give a treat or a special toy before you depart, leave a t-shirt with your scent that he can snuggle with, or turn on the radio or a CD.

To use music as a way of calming your dog, start by playing it during a relaxing time of day, such as when you’re getting ready for bed. Your dog knows that you’re going to be there for a while, so he’ll settle down and go to sleep. Choose something like soothing harp music. Give your dog a few days to associate the music with this relaxing time, then set up a departure conditioning experience, combining the music, a special treat, and your departure and quick return. Your dog learns that good things happen when you leave and that you come back right away.

If you start early, you can teach a puppy that being home alone need not involve chewing the woodwork, barking, or licking himself raw. With patient conditioning, older dogs and newly adopted shelter dogs can learn this lesson as well. If your dog is crate-trained or in the process, put him in the crate while you’re doing housework or otherwise going in and out of the room. Seeing you go out and come back every few minutes reassures him that you’ll always return.

If you have an older dog with some obedience training, place him in a down-stay as you go in and out of the room. At first, you may only be able to leave the room for 10 seconds before he breaks his stay and comes in search of you. Don’t scold, but place him back in position and leave again. Return quickly before he has time to get up. As he becomes comfortable with this, gradually increase the amount of time you’re gone: 10 seconds, 30 seconds, 1 minute, and so on.

You can also condition your dog to short periods of your absence by taking him with you on errands. Leave him in the car while you pump fuel, run into a convenience store for a quart of milk, or make a bank deposit. Your dog learns automatically that you’re gone for a minute or two, you come back, and being left alone isn’t a big deal. Of course, it’s important to take into account the weather and your schedule. On hot days, cars heat up rapidly, even with the windows cracked. Never leave your dog in the car on a hot day unless you can see the car and know you’ll be only a few minutes—picking up the dry cleaning, for instance. And don’t take your dog if your errand will take more than five minutes.

For dogs alike, part of successfully staying alone is the ability to entertain themselves. Whether your dog stays in a crate, in an exercise pen or dog run, behind a baby gate or is well-trained enough to stay out on his own, he needs toys or activities that will stimulate his mind without encouraging destructive behavior. Treat-release toys, or food puzzles, are ideal solutions. These toys all work by extending the time it takes a dog to get a treat or kibble. He focuses on getting at the food rather than being anxious or distressed by your absence. Match the food puzzle to your dog’s personality. You don’t want to make it so easy that he doesn’t have to spend any time at it or so difficult that he gives up in frustration.

Give your dog plenty of attention and play when you’re home. That way, he’ll be more satisfied and comfortable when he needs to stay by himself. Get involved in a dog sport such as agility, teach him to track, go for a walk at the same time every day, or simply set aside a regular time for the two of you to be together while you read or watch television. Even a regular grooming session is a good way for the two of you to share quality time.

The ability to hang out comfortably while you’re away is one of the most important skills your dog can learn and will benefit both of you throughout his life. With training, exercise, and preventive measures, you can help him develop the self-confidence he needs.

- By Kim Campbell Thornton, author of 10 books. She writes a monthly pet column for MSNBC.com and lives in Lake Forest, Calif.

• Friday, November 16th, 2007

Posted by Kim Campbell Thornton on 11/16/2007 in Training Tips Articles

Successful housetraining has one simple rule: consistency. Housetraining your puppy, or even an adult dog, will go more smoothly if you establish a potty schedule from day one. Taking a puppy out at the same times throughout the day helps establish in his mind that outside is the proper place to eliminate.

Let’s rundown seven tips for success, which apply to both puppies and adult dogs:

1. Recognize that puppies have a physiological need to eliminate when they wake up, after they eat, and after they’ve been active. Take your puppy out first thing in the morning, right after he eats, as soon as he wakes up from a nap, and after he’s through playing.

2. Don’t just send your pup outside and expect him to know what you want. Put him on leash and stay with him until he potties. Then praise him. “Good go potty!” This is how he learns that you want him to pee or poop outdoors.

3. Be determined. If your puppy doesn’t pee or poop when you take him outside, bring him back in and put him in his crate. Try again in 20 or 30 minutes. Don’t let him loose in the house until he has eliminated outside.

4. Heap on the praise. Bring a clicker and some treats with you every time you take the puppy out. As soon as he starts to potty, click once. When he’s finished, give him a treat. Puppies learn quickly that good things happen when they go outside to potty.

5. Understand your puppy’s physical limitations. Until a puppy matures physically, his bladder isn’t able to hold urine for long periods. Take your puppy out as often as possible. Set a kitchen timer as a reminder to take him out every hour or two when you’re home. When you’re not home, confine him to a crate or leave him in a puppy-proofed room, preferably one with an easy-clean tile or linoleum floor. Put papers on the floor to make cleanup easy.

6. Watch your puppy carefully. His body language can signal that he needs to go potty. Puppies who are good communicators may stare at you or jump up on you. Others stand at the door and look outside. Hang a bell on the door and ring it every time you take your puppy out to potty. He’ll soon learn to ring it himself when he needs to go out. If you see him sniffing and circling, hustle him outside fast!

7. Teach your puppy or dog to stay comfortably in a crate. Dogs are programmed not to eliminate where they sleep. Choose a crate that’s big enough for your dog to stand up and turn around in but not so big that he can potty at one end and sleep at the other. To create positive associations, give your puppy a treat when he goes in the crate, feed him inside his crate, and don’t let the kids don’t bother him when he’s in it. He’ll view it as a cozy hideaway all his own.

Parting advice: Puppies need time to grow up. Don’t expect your tail-wagger to be reliably housetrained until he’s at least a year old and has had the benefit of a consistent schedule, consistent expectations, and consistent praise when he does the right thing.

• Tuesday, August 21st, 2007

Posted by Amy Shojai on 8/21/2007 in Dog Behavior

Adopting a puppy or kitten often conjures anticipation of his eventual Lassie-like devotion and intelligence, or fond memories of dressing Grandma’s oh-so-tolerant cat in doll clothes. But soon, reality sinks in.

Few new pets measure up to the sometimes-inflated memories of cherished childhood pets. For first-time pet owners, even normal cat and dog behavior can prove perplexing.

Perhaps you have experienced one of these behavioral scenarios:

Your new puppy outgrows his cute phase and still has not perfected housetraining.
Your kitten doesn’t seem so adorable when her frisky antics end up breaking family heirlooms like china plates.
Your resident pets appear to hate the new one (or vice versa), or they scream in fear at the sight of another animal.
Your resident pet starts displaying unwanted behaviors, like growling or snapping at you or houseguests.
You need to find workable answers, but where should you go for help?

The first line of defense is your veterinarian, who will examine your pet to determine if a medical issue is the reason behind your cat or dog’s behavior problems. Your veterinarian can also recognize if your pet’s behaviors are within the realm of normalcy.

For behaviors deemed to be normal – such as a cat walking on counters or a dog barking frantically when the doorbell rings, veterinarians often can provide some basic behavior tips. They may also recommend a dog trainer to help you teach that active puppy some manners. Some veterinary clinics may suggest products geared to keeping cats off counters – or refer you to places offering training classes and support.

But not every veterinarian has the time to provide training or behavior advice. And, even experienced dog trainers who excel at teaching obedience and performance skills, may not have the knowledge or inclination to deal with pets with emotionally-based, extremely challenging issues.

For example, a standard obedience class won’t help a severely frightened dog or cat. The fear emotion can block an animal’s ability to think and learn. Pets displaying aggression toward other animals or people require professional help – the sooner, the better.

In searching for an animal behavior expert to treat challenging issues, be leery of behavior professionals who promise quick fixes or instant cures. Longstanding behavior problems tend to require intense dedication on the part of the owner and rarely can be guaranteed to have a 100% turn-around.

Though some behavior professionals also may teach dog training, most primarily concern themselves with helping owners and pets work through issues, such as:

Hit or miss bathroom behavior
Aggressive, shy or fearful behavior toward people/animals
Household issues such as countertop cruising or jumping up
Excessive vocalization like dog barking or cats screaming
Destructive behaviors including dog chewing or digging and cat clawing
Introductions of new pets or human infants to a resident pet
Environmental challenges—transitioning outside cats inside
Attachment or separation anxiety and related problems
Self-directed behaviors like licking, chewing, or obsessive tail chasing
Be aware that anyone can claim to be a behavior expert. Following poor advice can make your pet’s problems worse, so be sure to check out claims and verify credentials.

There are several reputable behavior and training associations with professionals available who specialize in pet training and/or behavior problems. Behaviors such as aggression can be difficult to unlearn and require professional help to teach cats and dogs how to react in new, more positive ways. Many times, your local veterinarian will know of any expert help in the area. You can also find behavior help through the following resources:

American College of Veterinary Behaviorists – This group consists of veterinarians with a special interest and additional study in the field of animal behavior. As veterinarians, they are also able to diagnose concurrent health conditions and prescribe drug therapies that may be helpful. There are currently 42 board-certified veterinary behaviorists (designated by the initials DACVB) in the United States and Canada. Find a listing of members by visiting their website: www.dacvb.org.

Animal Behavior Society – This group certifies qualified individuals as Applied or Associate Applied Animal Behaviorists. These professionals hold doctorate-level education in the field of animal behavior and hold the title CAAB: certified applied animal behaviorist. There are currently about 50 members. Find more information by visiting their website:www.animalbehavior.org.

International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants – This professional organization accredits and qualifies members as certified animal behavior consultants (CABC) or certified dog behavior consultants (CDBC). They address behavior issues of cats, dogs, and other companion animals. These experts may or may not hold graduate-level degrees and often work in partnership with local veterinarians to offer the best for your animals. Learn more about the organization by visiting their website: www.iaabc.org.

Association of Pet Dog Trainers – This group consists of more than 5,000 members worldwide and certifies dog trainers as Certified Pet Dog Trainer (CPDT). Members may be qualified to help pet owners with canine aggression or other dog behavior problems, as well as training. For more information and a list of member trainers, visit their website: www.apdt.com.

In the best of all worlds, our companion animals understand us, we understand them, and all live peaceably together. But when frustration and confusion about why your pets do what they do emerge, take comfort in knowing professional help is available.