Training Tips Articles

It's Potty Time! Tips for Housetraining a Puppy or New Dog

Kim Campbell Thornton — Fri, 16 Nov 2007 00:00:00 GMT

Successful housetraining has one simple rule: consistency. Housetraining your puppy, or even an adult dog, will go more smoothly if you establish a potty schedule from day one. Taking a puppy out at the same times throughout the day helps establish in his mind that outside is the proper place to eliminate.

Let's rundown seven tips for success, which apply to both puppies and adult dogs:

1. Recognize that puppies have a physiological need to eliminate when they wake up, after they eat, and after they've been active. Take your puppy out first thing in the morning, right after he eats, as soon as he wakes up from a nap, and after he's through playing.

2. Don't just send your pup outside and expect him to know what you want. Put him on leash and stay with him until he potties. Then praise him. "Good go potty!" This is how he learns that you want him to pee or poop outdoors.

3. Be determined. If your puppy doesn't pee or poop when you take him outside, bring him back in and put him in his crate. Try again in 20 or 30 minutes. Don't let him loose in the house until he has eliminated outside.

4. Heap on the praise. Bring a clicker and some treats with you every time you take the puppy out. As soon as he starts to potty, click once. When he's finished, give him a treat. Puppies learn quickly that good things happen when they go outside to potty.

5. Understand your puppy's physical limitations. Until a puppy matures physically, his bladder isn't able to hold urine for long periods. Take your puppy out as often as possible. Set a kitchen timer as a reminder to take him out every hour or two when you're home. When you're not home, confine him to a crate or leave him in a puppy-proofed room, preferably one with an easy-clean tile or linoleum floor. Put papers on the floor to make cleanup easy.

6. Watch your puppy carefully. His body language can signal that he needs to go potty. Puppies who are good communicators may stare at you or jump up on you. Others stand at the door and look outside. Hang a bell on the door and ring it every time you take your puppy out to potty. He'll soon learn to ring it himself when he needs to go out. If you see him sniffing and circling, hustle him outside fast!

7. Teach your puppy or dog to stay comfortably in a crate. Dogs are programmed not to eliminate where they sleep. Choose a crate that's big enough for your dog to stand up and turn around in but not so big that he can potty at one end and sleep at the other. To create positive associations, give your puppy a treat when he goes in the crate, feed him inside his crate, and don't let the kids don't bother him when he's in it. He'll view it as a cozy hideaway all his own.

Parting advice: Puppies need time to grow up. Don't expect your tail-wagger to be reliably housetrained until he's at least a year old and has had the benefit of a consistent schedule, consistent expectations, and consistent praise when he does the right thing.

By Kim Campbell Thornton, author of 10 pet books who writes a monthly pet column for MSNBC.com. She resides in Lake Forest, Calif.

Dealing with Nippy Dogs

Audrey Pavia — Mon, 08 Oct 2007 00:00:00 GMT

If you've been around dogs for much of your life, you have, at some point, been touched by a dog's teeth. While these experiences were probably benign - an overexcited puppy mouthing your arm or a friendly pooch gnawing on your hand - the potential for bodily harm is real whenever canine teeth meet human skin.

Nipping is an annoying and potentially dangerous habit in dogs. While most dogs nip as part of play, some do it to send a loud message. Whether your dog is nipping out of playfulness or aggression, you shouldn't ignore this unpleasant habit.

Before you can figure out how to stop your dog from nipping, you need to understand why he's doing it. If your dog is a puppy, it's likely he's nipping because he wants to engage you in a game (puppies nip each other for fun), or because he's teething. Either way, this is the time to teach your pup that his teeth should never make contact with human skin, no matter what the reason.

Start by letting your puppy know that nipping is not appreciated. The minute he starts to bite you, say "No bite!" in a loud voice and end the play session immediately. Do this consistently until your youngster gets the message that when he bites you, you react unpleasantly and then ignore him.

In the meantime, give him objects he can safely gnaw on to satisfy his need to chew. Ask your veterinarian to recommend some toys and treats that are safe for chewing. Be sure to enroll your puppy in obedience classes too so he learns that he must respect humans as he grows up.

If your dog is already grown and still has a tendency to nip when he wants to play, use the same method for teaching him that biting is unacceptable. Tell him "No bite!" and walk away--and do this each and every time. If you are consistent with this method, he'll get the message soon enough.

If your dog nips because he wants to stop you from doing something, like grooming him or moving him off the bed or couch, your problem may be more difficult to solve.

A dog who nips when he objects to what you want him to do has not accepted the fact that you are the pack leader in your household. In other words, the dog doesn't accept your authority and is basically telling you to take a hike. This behavior is not okay -unless of course you want your dog to start running your household.

To change your dog's attitude, you need to change his perception of you. The best way to do this is to enroll in an obedience class. Here, you will learn how to gain your dog's respect, while at the same time teaching him that he must follow your commands - not the other way around.

Remember that your new role as leader doesn't end when class is over. Practice obedience at home as well. You want to drive home the point that you are the one in charge, at home as well as in class.

If your dog's nipping continues despite your efforts at obedience training, consult with a professional dog trainer. If your dog has been allowed to get away with nipping for a long time, his habits may be harder to break without professional help.

If your dog is okay with adults but nips at children, your problem is serious. Even a small dog can easily hurt a child, or at the very least scare him or her to the point that the child becomes terrified of dogs. You should consult a professional trainer for assistance with this issue since this type of nipping can also escalate into more dangerous aggression.

- By Audrey Pavia, a freelance writer and author of pet books, including The Labrador Retriever Handbook (Barrons). Visit her website at www.audreypavia.com.

A 5-Point Plan to Put the Brakes on Your Cat-chasing Dog

Amy Shojai — Fri, 28 Sep 2007 00:00:00 GMT

Does your dog chase your cat? More than 40 percent of pet lovers keep multiple pets. While they often get along famously, some dogs treat the family feline like a windup toy. Constant chasing turns even easy-going cats into nervous wrecks, and even dogs who mean no harm may accidentally injure a cat or kitten.

Personalities predict success. Some dog breeds are naturally less predatory than others while some cats may be more tolerant of pestering canines. However, terrier and sight hound breeds are genetically hard-wired to chase scurrying critters. Fleeing by a cat can trigger predatory aggression in some dogs of these breeds.

It's vital that owners educate their dogs on the rules of the house to maintain harmony. To successfully achieve this, all members of the house must be consistent in reinforcing good doggy manners. Here, we offer a five-point plan to put the brakes on your cat-chasing dog. Before each training session, make sure you have a leash, plenty of treats and, of course, lots of patience.

1. Ensure your cat's safety by keeping your dog under leash control inside your house during "canine class" time. Prevent ANY chase from taking place. Use a long leash so that you can quickly step on it at the first sign that your dog is about to dash after your cat. Even if your cat instigates the session (some cats tease dogs unmercifully), don't allow any chase or tag games until after your dog has learned proper manners.

2. Keep an abundant supply of aromatic-beckoning, tasty treats handy so that you are ready to reinforce no chasing by your dog at the presence of a cat. These special treats should only be used for cat-proofing lessons and should be small enough that your dog needs only a chew or two to enjoy and swallow and be ready to heed your next treat-dispensing cue.

3. Give your dog a treat every time your cat makes an appearance. Reinforce good behavior by coming up with an easy-to-remember phrase, such as, "Cookie, cat!" and when your dog stays sitting - without chasing your cat - deliver a treat. Offer this payday whether your dog acts calm, excited, merely looks at your cat, barks, or anything else. The goal is to have your dog comprehend this cause-and-effect equation: a cat's presence equals tasty treats.

4. Use a leash to keep your dog a safe distance from your cat - but do not use the leash to force your dog's attention or behavior into what you want him to do. Let his brain process the equation in his own time. Some dogs "get it" right away, and others take longer. Within a few sessions, nearly every dog should start looking to you for a treat each time they hear, "Cookie, cat!" or your cat appears. Rather than lunging and chasing instinctively, your dog should be learning to stay and expect a reward.

5. Reinforce this behavior for at least a week or two in mini-sessions a few times a day. The sessions need only to be a few minutes in duration - but no more than 10 minutes - because it's difficult for some dogs, especially young ones, to maintain attention. Brush up with more training sessions as needed.

Final advice: Make sure your dog stays leashed or separated from your cat when you are not able to supervise their interactions until you are confident that your dog's desire to give chase has definitely been stopped in its tracks.

* By Amy Shojai, CABC, a nationally known pet care specialist, who has authored more than 20 pet books, including PETiQuette: Solving Behavior Problems in Your Multipet Household. She can be reached through her website: www.shojai.com.

Can You Really Teach an Old Dog New Tricks?

Pets Best — Thu, 15 Feb 2007 00:00:00 GMT

We’ve all seen them—dogs who seemed out of control with problem behaviors, dogs who seemed beyond hope. Fortunately, the truth of the matter is that no matter the age of the pet, obedience training and breaking bad habits is always an option.

When considering classes, many owners turn to local pet stores and online resources to determine what type of training will be best for them. A variety of options exist, from books and videos to individual personal trainers and group obedience classes. The key, according to dog expert John Ross, is consistency and dedication.

“Haphazard training produces unreliable results,” Ross says. “The old cliché, ‘What you put into it is what you get out,’ is particularly true with dogs.”

Author of Dog Talk, Puppy Preschool and Adopting a Dog, John Ross is a newspaper columnist, former radio-show host, and long-time dog trainer, working with literally thousands of dogs and their owners to help owners better understand how to communicate with and train their canine friends.

Dogs from six months to sixteen years can always benefit from obedience training and refresher courses, says Ross.

Puppy training expert Linda White agrees. In her videos on dog training, Linda breaks down bad behavior and tackles each subject head on. Whether it’s biting, chewing, jumping or general obedience, Linda walks owners through the process of turning their troublesome pup into a well behaved guy or gal.

“The number of dogs surrendered to shelters and euthanized is mind-boggling,” says Smart. “Even more saddening is how many of these dogs could have been saved if people had affordable training tools to deal with these behaviors.”

From that desire to help and educate, Happy Puppy Kindergarten was born. Puppy Smarts: Lessons for a Lifetime videos are available from veterinarians and also on her website at www.puppysmarts.com.

Whether it’s weekly dog obedience classes or the convenience of at-home books and videos, resources are available to help with problem behaviors and integrate even challenging pups into our homes and hearts. As the adage says, there truly are no bad dogs!

A New Puppy

Pets Best — Wed, 12 Apr 2006 00:00:00 GMT

A new puppy can be a fun addition to a household, but is a decision that should be thoroughly thought through before making the commitment for the next ten to twenty years. Puppies while being cute and entertaining require a great deal of time, patience and supervision. A young dog is not fully mature until the age of three or four meaning a good number of years before that puppy settles into a quiet adult dog and all puppies even if well supervised will wreck some havoc on a home and yard. If a new puppy is going to join your household or already has the first steps to take are potty training and puppy proofing.

...The key to potty training is setting your dog up for success by creating a daily routine of pattern behaviors...

Potty training is an absolute must for a canine companion in order to allow them in the house and in public environments. The key to potty training is setting your dog up for success by creating a daily routine of pattern behaviors. To start a new puppy off give them a safe and comfortable doggy space such as a crate where they can eat, sleep and are unable to exhibit any bad choices. The area should be small enough that your puppy cannot go potty on one end and sleep on the other. Dogs do not like to eliminate any place they sleep or eat so go ahead and feed meals in the crate or small space and in addition this will keep the space positive.

During the day set your pet up with a set schedule. Regular feeding times and regular potty breaks are essential, keep in mind a puppy will need to defecate approximately twenty to thirty minutes after a meal. Before allowing your puppy play time in the yard or quiet time in the house, always make sure they eliminate in the appropriate location. Anything is more fun then going potty, therefore it is typically necessary to take your puppy outside on leash, be patient, walk back and forth in the designated location and verbally state to your puppy a cue to go potty. Watch closely for sniffing, walking quick in circles and holding the tail up, all good signs we are about to go potty. Once we have gone potty reward with lots of praise, remember dogs are mans best friend and want to please us. After going potty then your puppy can enjoy playtime or activities in the home.

Inside your home set your puppy up for success by keeping them on a leash until potty training is complete and you can trust that the puppy will not be destructive, endangering your home or your pet’s health. Homes are generally too large is size for a new puppy that will have no problem going into another room for potty breaks. If you keep your puppy in sight they will be less likely to have an accident since dogs do not like to eliminate in lived in spaces, and you can watch for signs of having to go potty such as sniffing or acting restless. If you notice these signs head to the appropriate location and remember to reward.

It is also recommended to keep the water bowl outside. A water bowl in a crate can be quit a mess and you will be unable to keep track of how much water is consumed. A puppy given regular potty breaks with a water bowl on the way to that designated location will get plenty of water and you the owner can keep a mental track of water intake. If a puppy has drank a lot of water a potty break will be needed shortly. Since your puppy will be on leash in the house a water bowl in the house will not be easily accessible, also many puppies love to put there feet in the bowl and even splash water.

All dogs including puppies should be proofed, meaning anyone can manipulate any part of your their body without the pet becoming defensive or upset. The reason this must be done is so that you the owner can handle your pet, if a child runs up and grabs your pet the child does not get bit and for visits to your veterinarian and groomer. These exercises not only make life easier and less stressful for both you and your pet but make the veterinary visits and groomer visits a simple task.

...As you touch the dog’s tail, feet, ears, and belly reward with verbal praise, food rewards, and a calm soothing voice...

To begin this exercise start slow and reward often. Practice by touching areas you would normally pat and move to other body parts such as the toes, ears and tail. Keep the first few sessions short and positive however try to have a few sessions each day. As you touch the dog’s tail, feet, ears, and belly reward with verbal praise, food rewards, and a calm soothing voice. As your pet gets used to these body parts being touched start to be a little rougher, without hurting your pet. We want your pet prepared for an ear cleaning at the veterinarian’s office as well as being tackled by a neighborhood kid. If you get some resistance or nipping go ahead and say the word ‘no’ but continue with the exercise until your pet calms down and allows that body part to be touched. If your dog is nippy you can hold the pet under the chin to prevent being nipped or keep a plush toy available to keep the mouth busy. Remember to reward often when the puppy is still and allows their body parts to be manipulated.

In addition to dog proofing you need to teach your pet that it is ok to be restrained by a person. The best way to do this is to sit on the floor and roll your pet unto their back into what is called a settle position. The owner can hold onto the dogs front legs and place their legs on either side of the dog to provide support. If the puppy is a small breed this exercise can be done on your lap while sitting on the floor or while sitting on a sofa. Reward by providing praise when successful and keep the first few settles short. If your pet resists and try’s to get up continue to hold until still and then let your pet up. The exercise of proofing needs to be continued through maturity and ideally for the rest of your pet’s life.

Keep in mind any new pet needs a great deal of time, attention, and structured exercise. Any further questions regarding potty training and proofing should be directed towards your local veterinarian who may refer you to a professional dog trainer. It is always recommended for inexperienced dog owners to seek the assistance of a professional trainer to get your pet off to the right start and all dogs should be trained basic obedience and taught proper social skills in addition to potty training and puppy proofing.

Canine Communication

Pets Best — Mon, 13 Mar 2006 00:00:00 GMT

...the history of dog training has been to correct and punish, instead of rewarding canine choices and establishing routes of communication that produce a well developed canine...

If it's true that 80% of communication is non-verbal, it stands to reason that we could learn quite a bit from our canine friends. Since the beginning of the man-dog relationship, dogs and wolves have proven to be expert communicators through their use of body language, facial expressions and vocalizations. Turid Rugaas, a Norwegian dog trainer with over fifteen years experience studying wolves, has discovered over thirty calming signals that can easily be recognized and used by humans to directly communicate with our canine companions.

In her book On Talking Terms with Dogs, Rugaas shares her insights on the fascinating world of communication between dogs, as well as between dogs and their owners. "We need to learn to understand the language of dogs so that we can understand what our dogs are telling us," Rugaas says. "That is the secret of having a good life together."

One signal that is commonly misunderstood in the human-canine connection is the dog's use of the yawn. Rather than signifying that he is tired or bored, the yawn is a coping mechanism used when the dog feels threatened. When a threat is received, according to Rugaas, the dog will always respond with a calming signal such as yawning, licking his nose or turning away, among others.

Unfortunately, she says, a large majority of dog owners ignore these signals, creating stress, anxiety and even aggression in their pets. Rather than help the situation, correction and punishment only further complicate the human-canine relationship, so understanding is key.

"The dog may yawn when someone bends over him, when you sound angry, when there's yelling and quarreling in the family, when the dog is at the vet's office, when someone is walking directly at the dog, when you ask the dog to do something he doesn't feel like doing, when your training sessions are too long and the dog gets tired, and in many other situations," Rugaas says. What he's really telling us is, "Please understand me."

"These signals are international and universal. Dogs all over the world have the same language. A dog from Japan would be understood by an Elkhound who lives in an isolated valley in Norway. They will have no communication problems!"

The trouble then is not so much dog to dog, but dog to human. With our sweeping gestures and loud voices, too often we send our dogs into a state of panic where they struggle to communicate with us through calming signals. Even young puppies will display the use of calming signals in the hopes of communicating uncertainty or fear. And we thought that all that sniffing at the vet's office was just out of curiosity!

Strengthening the animal-human relationship is not easy, but it is most certainly possible, especially with a little patience and a better understanding of what our four-legged friends are trying to say.

Source: HSUS.org; healthypet.com; geocities.com; newsday.com; cavolark.com; canis.no/rugaas/index; clickertraining.com